FLORENCE - a song in my Heart!

          Back to Florence after some adventures in a big city. Florence is like a little home and whenever I disembarked and see the train station of Santa Maria Novella, I always have a little song in my heart. Oh Florence, do you reciprocate my feelings? Are you glad to have me back too?

           It is not possible to feel bored in Florence. There are so many beautiful places, one will never run out of things to do or see.  And some places are not enough just to go once.  

     
           This is a portion of a wall viewed from outside of the Ceramics museum in Giardino di Bòboli. I think I was mistaken that it was part of Porta Romana. What I love about it is the bricks with the creeping plants growing on and around it. I just love plants on walls. I sketched this on the spot, overlooking the Tuscany landscape, under a nice afternoon sun and gentle breeze. It is one of my favourite so far. It was the first time I used a fine tip ball point, so I was able to include some fine features of the all bricks and leaves.

          This is a staircase in Giardino della Rosa in Piazza Michelangelo. Yes, in this piazza you see the copper replica of David, standing there so resolute over the times.  The staircase is very pretty with grass and flowers on both sides. It is here also that I first see an artichoke plant - rather than the bulbs in the supermarket.

            Located near the Piazza is also the church of San Miniato. This is probably the highest point in Florence, where one can admire the panoramic view of the city. The church is free to enter, and has very different interior compared to other churches I visited. It has got wooden scaffolding for the ceiling and every panel painted.

               The first time I walked along Via de' Cerratani and the Duomo loomed into view, it really took my breath away. It's like you are approaching a huge gentle giant. So capturing this view in sketch is mandatory for me. The people on the streets are way much more than this, although perhaps this is true in the early mornings. An expert will tell you standing on the streets will not give you such a perspective. Well, one expert did ask me if I was flying above the ground when I did this.  It's impossible to stand for hours to sketch this. I'd be run over or just get rooted to the ground at the end of everything. I took a picture and cropped it so that the road I was standing on wasn't so long before it reached my main objects. Joanne wanted to buy this sketch, but it's difficult to collect money from friends. So I sent this along with the Piazza di Spagna off to her.

            I wanted the Basilica di San Giovanni to be the main focus here. And tried to see if I can catch the gist of the Duomo façade with just simple strokes. San Giovanni or Saint John the Baptist is the patron saint of Florence. This Baptistery has witnessed the baptisms of many geniuses that Tuscany produced like Dante. I sent this to dad as a Father's Day gift along with a card but it got lost in post! Italian side or Singaporean side? Is it possible I wrote the wrong address after decades of staying in that address??? -_-|||

          Another view of Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, this time the side view of the stone walls facing Piazza dell'Unità Italiana. It's a common sight for me, waiting for the bus to get home at Via degli Avelli. 

 

             This is a typical alley in Florence, stone cobbled streets,  narrow alleyway with buildings on both sides. Yet it is still possible for Florentines to navigate through these alleys in cars! Beautiful cobbled streets they are, but they are a torture to a lady in stilettos. Once is enough for me... I will not sacrifice my feet or my stilettos in the name of vanity again!

ROME - 1st stop out of Florence

25.05.2012 - 27.05.2012

The trip where I met new friends and also where I met him. At a train station in Rome. Perhaps God wrote this script for us. Who knows what lies in the future. Perhaps we'll get to jump in the Trevi Fountain like Sylvia and Marcello to share a dance?

      

             I went on my first trip within Italy by rail to one of the most romantic cities in the world - Rome. Well, or so it is believed. Media and websites tend to romanticize a place with all it has to offer, so we make our own judgement when we experience the place. It IS romantic. Like everywhere else in Italy.  I think that's why Italians smooch everywhere they go. Walking on the streets, in the park, in piazzas, looking at a monument together. So it's a pretty lonely place to be if you're on your own. Of course with the Roman empire leaving their legacy even after so many centuries, I had to take with me some sketches of Rome.

             I spent the weekend in Rome to meet up with a lady I met back in Singapore, Laura. We were taking Chinese painting lessons together and she was back to visit her parents. I reached Rome a day earlier before I met Laura, so I was very generously hosted by Vincenzo and his lovely family. Elisabetta was not in the picture as she was busy cooking up a storm in the kitchen to get dinner ready.

           Here's Laura with her lovely daughter and parents. We had great sugo all'amatrician with a rather fat pasta, something that looked like penne but it's name slipped my mind. Laura brought tofu - a kind of rather firm beancurd back from Singapore and asked me how I usually made it. So I cut into cubes, shallow fried it and sprinkled a dash of peperoncini (or chilli flakes) and we had them with salad. Ooo, yummy. I do miss tofu!

          I toured Rome on my own the next day, before meeting up with Laura again in the evening. So I went through all the places that a tourist should in Rome. I got ripped off by two Spartans at Piazza di Spagna. That was my very first lesson that nothing is ever free in Europe. They took my camera, one Spartan snapped a photo of me with his mate and asked me for 10 euros. I was just in shocked even as I took out my wallet and handed them the note. 

          

 

           Yeah, I was still smiling when I took this photo. That was before I was 10 euros poorer. It is such a beautiful piazza however and the steps were popular with tourists sitting on it and just taking in the May sun. Hey, I'M IN ROME!

          Piazza di Spagna. This sketch was presented to Joanne, who was deciding between this and another sketch of the Duomo from Via de' Cerratani. I thought it'll be nice to send her both, and my sketches will have a good home and owner.

            I wandered a little aimlessly and reached Via del Corso and chanced upon this magnificent church with the word humiltà or humility written on its glass doors. The Italian word is umiltà, so perhaps this is Latin? Indeed, humility is one of the virtues we require for a devotion towards religion. How else can we bow down to a higher being? This church is magnificent in its interior adorned with so much marbles of so many different variety and colours. Green, pink, yellow, maroon. Once again, nature never run out of ideas for designs. Basilica di Sant'Ambrogio e Carlo was truly the first church in Italy I ventured in. From then on, I realised that every church in Italy is a museum of painting and sculptures. From the ceilings to the walls and floors. Every chapel, every pillar, every tile is a work of art.

           

               Something is not too right with this sketch. The horizontal markings on the pillars are not aligned. I was quite pleased with the perspective as well as the lighting and shadow achieved, but then I forgot about the horizontal stuff and they ended up this way.

             Time was running late. I have yet to see the other great monuments! I got rather lost finding Fontana di Trevi. I would have loved to capture its beauty in my sketches, but doing so will mean drawing sculptures rather than buildings and I will not wish to do them injustice.

           

              These were the pillars from the left side of the Pantheon. I needed to rest my legs a bit from all the walking. I only had a felt pen, which I hadn't master control over. It was difficult to create light and dark areas and I was sketching on a textured paper at the back of a pamphlet.

         So here's my third attempt at the Pantheon. Somehow the first two attempts just got interrupted... I reached my destination on my flight, then my train arrived on my second attempt. The third time, I was determined to get it done. This is a very "postcard" perspective. 

           Another splendid church in a splendid piazza - Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Piazza Navona. I will never run out of places to kiss in Italy. This piazza is very special with 3 fountains aligned and elliptical in shape. Water of the fountains are supplied by the Vergine aqueduct, built in ancient times. After some pestering by Zachary, my 8 year old nephew who wanted me to reproduce this sketch for him, I decided to give him this instead, together with my sketch of the Colosseum, which I gave to Teck, since he and Angela had spent a holiday there before.

             My first view of this magnificent Roman architecture wasn't under the best circumstances. I had a full bladder and was in desperate need of a toilet. Lesson number two that nothing is ever free in Europe. Not even the toilets. I was willing to give ANY amount to use a toilet then. Why can't I find the golden arches of M when I need them???? I had to convince the waiter that I will buy a gelato after using their toilet. So this view was captured after I released the burden of a full bladder, holding a gelato I still remember was pineapple and peach flavour. Was rather good if it was not because I was standing under the rain with the cold wind and late for my dinner appointment.

             So my second attempt at the Colosseum, looking at the real thing and about one month apart. Comparing my two sketches of the Colosseum, it did inspire a young Danish I met at the mix hostel in Milan. He asked me if I just picked up a pen and started. Yes. Anyone can do it if they try. So he said he is going to do just that the next day. Get a pen and a sketch pad. To help him get started, I tore a few pages of my sketch pad and gave it to him. I hope he is getting well with his sketching now!

          It's a cliché but I'd still say it. Life is full of surprises. I should be annoyed with myself for leaving my jacket behind at Laura's place, had to waste the morning going back to get it and not have time to tour more of the historic centre of Rome. But I was not too grumpy about it. Just annoyed at myself for having to spend that cab fare. I went back again, got to meet some of Laura's relatives, and they invited me to stay for lunch. 

      

              I get to pat Yuke again, a big gentle dog of Laura's parents. He does not move so fast or see too well, but wag his tail fervently whenever I call his name.

         So, I happened to be at that place, at that time. In Aurelia, at around 4pm in the afternoon on 27 May when I first met him. Ticket office was close on Sunday, so I wasn't even sure if there was a train. He was at the platform, not too sure if there'll be a train. (But he was waiting ... for something ... wasn't he? hmmm) So he said he could help me with the language if I need to get tickets on the train and we talked. And we exchanged contacts. And we chatted all these months.

       My first visit to Rome. I promised to return and I did. Perhaps throwing that coin into the Trevi Fountain made it real.

Art All Around

             Art is all around us. We do not necessary have to be in a place where a lot of great art is around. Nature is a great artist. Where else do artists or designers draw their inspiration from? The vibrant colours, the design on plants, animals and insects.

             I happen to be fortunate enough to get to live in the birthplace where plenty of great art was born. Florence - the cradle of the Renaissance.

             Here are my earlier sketches, during the first week in Florence. The weather was beautiful and everywhere I turned, I was immersed in the Renaissance architecture. These early sketches are without light and shadows, and the buildings look as if they have undergone some seismic activity. Also inclusion of a short text on the page wasn't that elegant as they seemed all over the place.

02.05.2012

        This was overlooking the buildings across the banks of the River Arno near Ponte Vecchio. I have only heard of paying extra for taking away due to the packaging the cafè provides. I guess there is a price for feasting your eyes on the view of the river. I am just thankful I did not have to pay for the air I breathe. I had a caffè freddo con panna or cold coffee with cream at a cafè called Bar Due Ponti. I love the windows at the back of this shop.

        This was sitting on Ponte Vecchio, omitting the scores of tourists overlooking the views from this old icon of Florence. The second story with windows is Vasari's Corridor. I witnessed scores of students taking group pictures on this particular location. A gentleman tried chatting me up in Italian. His incessant chatter became quite tiresome after a while when my sketch turned out lopsided.

          Sitting on Ponte Trinità and sketching Ponte Vecchio. It is probably one of the most popular site for taking great photos of this old bridge, with its three solid arches and goldsmith shops occupying both sides. There were even people rowing in the river. It was a beautiful day, though it was pleasant for the first half hour, I started having to endure the sun rays and the cold wind. So I was quite glad when the time came for me to have coffee with a new friend - one of the artists sitting near Ponte Vecchio peddling his works.

 04.05.2012

       The peripheral of Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, facing Piazza dell'Unità Italiana. Adorned in alternate green and white bands of marbles and making a right angle with the gothic façade. I was sitting on the bench sketching, again, another elderly gentleman sat next to me and started chatting to me in Italian. I could probably make out about 5% of what he was saying, most of it by guessing. He was pleasant, taking a rest after a long day of work. He works for a newspaper, probably editorial board. He wanted to ask for my number to go for coffee sometimes, but it was not difficult to say no by pretending not to understand his invitation. I wouldn't mind having coffee with him really. I just didn't want to give my number to a stranger.

05.05.2012

       I sketched this while having my first apertivo or aperitif in Italy. For a glass of wine for 5 euros, you can help yourself to a buffet of finger food ranging from bite size panini to bruschette, chips and olives. From this cafè, I had a great view of the Capelle Medici. There was a nice slant of the evening sun rays, but I started too dark and there was no allowance to include the light and shadow.

I shared the table with an American couple. Incidentally, this particular cafè is very popular with American tourists. There was a table next to me where a group of Americans were discussing about their art. 

06.05.2012

 

      I had yet to set foot in Rome, not to mention the Vatican City, so this sketch of St. Peter's square is really from a travel magazine I found. I liked the perspective of the photo and used black pen for the first time. I decided to head outdoors to continue my sketch given that it was such a beautiful sunny day. I found an empty bench outside the Uffizi and sat there to finish it up before heading for a lunch appointment. Just when I finished and taking a photograph, a policeman walked up. He was curious about my sketches and gave me his compliments. Great that sketching on a bench isn't illegal!

            My lunch appointment was with the owner of this charming old shop. It spells Enoteca, or a shop where wine is sold. It is not only a Enoteca but selling all odds and ends, from sandwiches to olive chopping boards to Pinocchio! The owner, Michele has become a friend now and was introduced to me by my flatmate Yuko on my first day in Florence. I decided to attempt sketching his shop and giving him in return for his generosity. It was also the first time I had pasta made by an Italian. Simply just olive oil, garlic, chilli flakes, spaghetti and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese! I stood in the drizzle for this sketch, but had to complete it at home and presented it Michele on my next visit.

      That's Michele preparing a pane in his charming little shop. Open 7 days a week!

Yuko and me in Michele's shop

07.05.2012

           This is the workshop of Professor Agostino Dessì. During my first week of wandering around in Florence, I chanced upon his charming shop at Via Faenza. It was enchanting with all the masks hanging form the ceiling and the walls.
https://www.facebook.com/abracadabra.firenze?ref=ts&fref=ts
http://www.alicemasks.com/home.htm

         I went back again the second day, there was a young man Andrea at the workshop. Agostino and Andrea were having a discussion on the mask that Andrea was making. They had different opinions about whether a black lining should be drawn in the indentation made in the leather. They asked for my opinion and when I said yes, Agostino invited me to draw the lining. Andrea handed me an apron. That was how I got acquainted with the two gentlemen. Agostino had an event in his gallery that very evening and invited me along. That's Andrea at work in Agostino's workshop. 

         I presented the sketch of his shop to Agostino and he gave me a pair of earrings which are mini-masks in return of good favour. What a pleasant surprise and what refine workmanship!

          
08.05.2012

        I love capturing the perception of looking down a long stretch of road. There is a vanishing point and the view of both sides getting narrower as it moves further away from us. I also love arches, which is a recurring feature in Renaissance architecture.

        This magnificent arch is situated at Piazza della Repubblica, the entire structure in a sand colour. The first picture is of the original sketch but my black ink has ran out and I had to finish the sketch in blue ink. The second picture is an edited version. I met a very pleasant girl Dana working at a gelateria and she selected this sketch. So I presented her with a blue-black sketch.

        This structure houses a grand post office with luxurious pink marble pillars along the walkway. Honestly, who will mind waiting for his turn at the post office sitting amidst such grandeur?

            On the ceiling of the entrance, we are greeted with coloured terracotta of different symbolic creatures. They are allegories of speedy delivery.

10.05.2012

        After several sketches, I finally had the courage to attempt Florence's most famous landmark Il Duomo and Giotto's Campanile. Duomo means the main cathedral and campanile means bell tower in Italian. It took me 3 to 4 hours of intense labour to try capturing every detail of its magnificent marble façade. I presented this to my flatmate Satomi as she was moving to another apartment and got a kiss from her. We had so much fun together despite the language barrier.

          

         Here's Satomi and me, at one of the authentic Ramen places in Florence. We were holding glasses of shoju and sake (I think). We had too many that evening. Beware of that restaurant though. Much as I enjoy the food, I feel it's a place for Italian guys to go check out Japanese girls!

14.05.2012

         This was another attempt at the Duomo from another perspective. Not very pleased with the final result as Brunelleschi's dome seemed out of proportion, like one segment missing. The whole sketch also appeared too dark, as if covered in patina. That is the term used for the phenomenon where objects tend to darken with age. Well, this portion of the Duomo is covered with patina and undergoing restoration, but it wasn't my intention to make it so dark. I presented this to Megumi, another of my Japanese flatmate who was interning at the gelateria where Dana is working.

          After two intensive sketches of the Duomo, I was quite relaxed sketching the unadorned façade of this church - Chiesa di Santa Spirito, which means Church of the Holy Spirit. Situated at Piazza Santa Spirito, which is a lovely little Piazza with many charming cafès. It is much quieter compared to other piazzas, I guess not many tourists come here. My favourite cafè is Volume, with some hot baristas and lovely ambiance. Most importantly, it has free Wifi and caffè expresso only 80 cents euros. It is very close where I am having lessons at a restoration workshop. I usually have lunch at this Piazza. This is the first time I included human beings in my sketch. I wanted to show the proportions of the church. Anyway, this is a typical scene during lunch time, where people sit on the steps of the square to have their lunch.

 

           That's the interior of Volume cafe, a place with awesome music, affordable caffè expresso and they change the art on their walls periodically. Another aspect I like of it, there an English version of the art collection in Galleria degli Uffizi. They serve awesome apertivo too!

16.05.2012

          Once again showing my obsession of arches and porticoes. This is seen from the tourist centre in Florence, near to the main train station and next to Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. It is part of the baptistery, but protected behind a glass wall, out of bounds to the public. I was fascinated by the different designs covering the edge of the arches. This sketch was presented to Roxana, a girl with Dana and Megumi whom I met on the same day at the gelateria. We took some crazy photos together at the gelateria. Roxana, Megumi and Dana posing with my sketches.

19.05.2010

           This is the marble façade of Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, facing one of the loveliest squares in Florence, Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. The peripheral gates were sketched on 04.05.2012. This church is flanked by two Piazzas - Piazza Santa Maria Novella and Piazza dell'Unità Italiana.. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella is lovely especially in the evenings, but I rarely stopped to admire it's beauty until in the company of vivacious Anna, whom I got acquainted with in September 2012. On her last night in Florence, together with two other new friends Taka and Chinwe, we made a fool of ourselves there. But who cares about making the fool, we had fun, didn't bring harm to anyone, and that's what matters!

         
           I think Taka and Anna looked like they are use to modelling. Perhaps they are!! They look natural while trying every sexy pose.

               Here's another perspective of Basilica di Santa Spirito. I like the geometry of the angle where the church has a triple step and the afternoon sun makes sharp shadows on the walls.

22.05.2012

          Palazzo Vecchio or meaning old palace is one of the most magnificent palaces in Florence. It sits in my favourite piazza - Piazza della Signoria with many sculptures of Greek mythology. It also has a replica of Michelangelo's David in marble. I didn't get to admire it's full glory by going into the museum till September.

       The piazza has so many sculptures of men with the perfect human anatomy, naked and adorned with muscles on every inch of their body that we call it "Butt Square". However that's not the reason why it's my favourite piazza. It's the atmosphere. The entire space is just saturated with Greek mythology that influenced the Romans so much. It is very lovely at night, especially with street artists playing lovely music that just seem to resonate within the premise of the piazza. It is hard not to fall in love here. Place checked. Atmosphere checked. At that time, the most important element was still missing. I fulfilled my fantasy of kissing in the most beautiful piazza, under the starry night, with the music of Giuseppe Verdi in the background many months after this sketch was made.

24.05.2012 

            Chiesa di San Gaetano lies in the path where I walk towards Santa Spirito. What first struck me was the sun rays falling on it. I told myself I have to return to do a sketch of it. The amount of details was astounding. But that was during my first week in Florence when I was still not used to the Renaissance architecture that practically makes Florence an outdoor museum. Anyway, I went back to it and spent some arduous time trying to capture all the details. Not very pleased with the final result as I was not able to include lighting and shadow. The whole sketch appeared so flat. But I completed it and had to rush for my train to Rome. 

            This concludes my first month of sketching Florence!  If I can have a life sketching and cooking around Italy, it will surely be a dream come true. The beauty of Italy, all the wonders she has to offer - cuisine, culture, language, people. One life is not enough!